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During the route we also visit an original Chagga house and a waterfall at the village. All in all one day with many new impressions. |
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| Terraced farming on the farmland of the Chagga |
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| Day trip or two days in the Massai village Olpopongi |
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| Some words on the history of Old Moshi |
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100 years ago this place was not called Old Moshi but only Moshi, being the name of a chiefdom of the Chagga people at Kilimanjaro. Today the existence of chief Mandara and his son Meli are scientificly acknowledged. There were also other chiefs living close to Kilimanjaro, their kingdoms being separated by steep valleys. The chiefs were responsible for communicating and dealing with the passing through caravans and late in the 19th century they also had to handle adventures, scientists and colonists from Europe and the USA. The German East-African Society was situated in Old Moshi, Ehlers being the first commissioner. Ehlers claimed to have been at the top of Kilimanjaro in 1887. Later in 1889 Hans Meyer, a geologist could prove that Ehlers had been lying about climbing the top. While Ehlers had never mentioned a crater, Hans Meyer found one and could therefore prove Ehlers to be a liar. While Ehlers was interested in acknowledgement and popularity the German Missionaries and the Military had other reasons for coming to Kilimanjaro. The spread of Christianity and the protection of German Colonial Territory was their aim. But by 1918 Germany have to give up its colony and it became British. But some German words have found their way into today’s life, the schools being still called Shule. At a stay in Old Moshi about one year ago Wilson Sindato a friend and native told me, that he is not mad at the German colonists, since they came to educate and christianize his people. We passed a big tree and he added that at this place German soldiers had hanged his grandfather and taken his head back to Germany, where it now is exposed in a museum. I was confused and did not know how to take this story. Since I could not forget, what Wilson had told me I decided to make some research on the subject and found a very interesting book “Die Kopfjagd, Deutsche in Ostafrika” (Martin Baer & Olaf Schröter). At another visit in Old Moshi I got to know Iseria Meli, the grandson of Chief Meli. He also told me the story of the hanging of Sindato and his grandfather and could add some of the other names of the men that were hanged with Chief Meli. All the bodies are buried without their heads. I promised him to try to find the heads in Germany. While researching it the whole extent of the problem became clear. The Chagga people buried the head and an arm of the passed away relation at a special place in the mountains. The head was turned in the direction to Kilimanjaro. Since the heads of the hanged had been taken to Germany the ritual of burying the dead could not be held and in the belief of the Chagga people the relatives could not come to rest. In order to be able to make a research in the museums you have to know the day of the death of the person which head you are looking for. The relatives of Chief Meli could not relate the day or year of the hanging, but the Missionaries kept a detailed account of the circumstances of the execution. That’s why we know now (thanks to Referent Kiesel), that at the 2nd of March in 1900 nineteen men of the Chagga people have been hanged by the German colonial troupes, being accused of conspiracy against the Germans. 105 years late relatives of Chief Meli and I came together where his body is buried without his head. In Germany a search for the head lead us to the Kustos Dr. Creutz, and the Rudolf-Virchow-Collection in Berlin, which helped us tremendously but did not lead to the finding of the head of Chief Meli. We decided to offer a tour to Old Moshi only then, when we have more information on the whereabouts of the head of Chief Meli. We are therefore using the internet in order to make our search publicly
known and ask for help. |
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